It has been awhile since we’ve been to Recess—not sure why,
it is still one of the best restaurants in town. I guess maybe it seems like
such a commitment, time-wise and food-wise.
The good news is, it is totally worth it. It was on my in-laws list of places they have
wanted to try in Indy, and it was the holidays, so a good excuse (not that you
really need one).
I am sure you know by now that Recess is a price fixed menu—you
get 4 or 5 courses—usually you have a
choice for the largest protein and often there is an additional supplemental
course for an extra charge (this night it was $56 with a $12 up charge for the
pate). So you have to go on faith with
what they are making that day. Most
meals I have had have been good to really great, although there are always
courses that I like better than others.
The first course on this night was the weakest one for me
(and I think everyone at the table). It was mixed greens with sliced jicama,
radishes and tortilla chops and queso fresco.
There was a little dab of avocado puree there as well as what was
described as a roasted poblano vinaigrette. The problem was there was so little
dressing you couldn’t really taste it at all and it made the salad really hard
to eat because it was like trying to fork dry leaves off the plate—there was nothing
to stick them together. The particular
greens used were also very bitter –without more dressing to smooth them out,
they were pretty assertive.
The next course was fluke (which is a semi firm white fish)
and it was perfectly done. I have always appreciated how well fish is prepared
at Recess. It was seasoned and seared and served on top of cauliflower puree
with arugula and artichoke hearts and hunks of bacon. The flavors were nice—it didn’t feel
ridiculously heavy for a seafood course, but had a nice wintery feel to it with
the bacon and the roasted artichoke hearts.
After that, we had the supplemental course that you could
get if you wanted for $12. It was pork pate with caper berries, mustard and
pickled red onions. We got one order to share between the four of us, and I
think it as plenty to share (I saw one table where everyone got the supplemental
course—no way could I have eaten the entire thing on my own). The pate was good—quite
strong on its own, but I loved a bit of it on the bread with a little bit of
each of the other accompaniments. They were a perfect combo. In the past, I
have not been a huge fan of caper berries, even though I love capers and
olives, because the ones I had were really firm. These were great with it though, and were
soft. This was the kind of dish in which
you realize every ingredient had an integral part—it was really well done.
Next was the main dish and on this night there was a choice
between tombo tuna or hanger steak. I
had the tuna and everyone else got the steak (although my mother-in-law and I
agreed to share our two dishes). The tuna was amazing. It was quickly seared on
the outside and served on top of wild rice, roasted Brussels sprouts, golden
raisins and tot soi (a green). The sauce was perfect with it—it was a soy based
glaze flavored heavily with ginger and lemongrass. I loved it all. The wild
rice gave it some interesting texture in contrast to the buttery tuna. A little
sweet burst from a raisin every once in awhile was a nice surprise as well.
Honestly, this was a dish that I wouldn’t have ever designed because some of
the ingredients aren’t typically my favorite things, but it was perfect. It was a dish that makes you appreciate the lack
of choice at Recess because it makes you step slightly out of your comfort
zone.
The beef was also very good (hubby and I argued over which
was best) but I liked the tuna better. The beef was a great dish too though. It
was nice medium rare slices of hanger steak with celery root, mushrooms, snap
peas and served with a red wine beef sauce.
A rich, hearty wintery meal for sure. For me, it just couldn’t compare
to all the different flavors in the tuna.
The last course was dessert and it was also really, really
good. It was a little apple fritter with a side of bourbon maple ice cream and
topped with spiced nuts. The fritter was
fried and had little bits of apple inside it. The fritter with the ice cream
was really nice—again, a nice wintry dish that felt rich without being too
heavy.
We did the wine pairings as well, and I think they do a very
good job with them. I think the pours are fairly generous (not quite a full
glass). I don’t think there were any selections that I didn’t like. The biggest downside of the meal was actually
the pacing. Service was quite slow in between a couple of the
courses—and not because of the server himself, but the kitchen just seemed to
be having trouble keeping up or something.
The place was pretty much full most of the time we were there which was
nice to see. I was surprised to see that Room 4 was not very busy on this
particular night for some reason. I
haven’t been in awhile. I wonder how their business is going. Anyone been in
awhile? Anyhow, Recess is certainly one
of Indy’s culinary gems and we are lucky to have it.
Recess
Indy 46205
317/925-7529